🏙️ Mary King’s Close – The Buried Street of Edinburgh

Hidden beneath the bustling Royal Mile of Edinburgh lies a haunting relic of the past – Mary King’s Close, a 16th-century street sealed beneath layers of stone and silence. Formed during the late 1500s, it became one of the busiest thoroughfares of the Scottish capital, a warren of merchants’ homes, craftsmen’s workshops, and the humble dwellings of common folk. Rising up to seven or eight stories, these medieval tenements were astonishing for their time, earning Edinburgh the тιтle of “the world’s first vertical city.” Yet beneath its thriving surface, shadows gathered. In the mid-17th century, the bubonic plague swept through the city, leaving devastation in its wake. Quarantine was imposed; families were locked within their homes, and Mary King’s Close became a graveyard of whispers. By the 18th century, as progress rose above, the close was buried to make way for the Royal Exchange – now the City Chambers – entombing centuries of life, death, and memory beneath the modern city.

Radical Regeneration: Cities In Victorian Scotland - Books from Scotland

Built from sturdy local sandstone, the architecture of Mary King’s Close was both practical and poetic. Its narrow, sloping pᴀssageways and steep gables were designed to withstand the cold North Sea winds while maximizing precious space. The buildings bore timber-framed facades, while cobblestones below glistened with centuries of rain. Archaeological findings reveal fragments of daily life preserved in the damp earth – pottery shards, worn tools, fabric scraps, and fragments of hearths once warm with fire. Each artifact tells the story of ordinary people surviving in extraordinary times. The meticulous craftsmanship of these old structures, from the hand-carved lintels to the heavy stone archways, demonstrates a harmony between necessity and art, between endurance and ingenuity.

The Yeoman Shore, from the West Railway Station, Dundee by James Valentine  | National Galleries of Scotland

The rediscovery of Mary King’s Close came not through accident but through curiosity. For generations, the street lived on in legend – stories of ghostly footsteps beneath the City Chambers, of voices echoing in the dark. In the 1990s, maintenance workers uncovered bricked-up doorways and chambers hidden below ground, sparking renewed archaeological interest. By the early 2000s, The City of Edinburgh Council and the heritage organization The Real Mary King’s Close initiated formal excavations and restoration. Archaeologists documented the remarkably preserved dwellings, uncovering layers of history untouched for centuries. Through their work, the forgotten underworld of Edinburgh was brought back to light – a fragment of time resurrected beneath the city’s beating heart.

Head of West Bow, Edinburgh by Archibald Burns | National Galleries of Scotland

Mary King’s Close is not merely an archaeological site; it is a mirror held up to humanity’s resilience. The damp stone corridors whisper of survival amid disease, poverty, and fear. During the plague, stories tell of courageous plague doctors in waxed leather coats and masks filled with herbs, who braved infection to bring comfort to the dying. Among them, legends speak of Dr. George Rae, a physician whose efforts to ease suffering became part of the city’s folklore. These tales, woven through centuries, remind us that even in the darkest corners of history, compᴀssion flickers like a candle against despair.

For historians, the site offers rare insight into early urban planning and public health. It shows how medieval Edinburgh balanced its growth with the constraints of geography – building upward when there was no room to expand outward. For sociologists and anthropologists, it is a time capsule of human endurance, a reminder of the delicate boundary between progress and oblivion. And for visitors, descending into its narrow lanes is like crossing a threshold between two worlds: the vibrant present and the ghostly murmur of the past.

West Bow, Edinburgh by James Valentine | National Galleries of Scotland

Today, under the care of The Real Mary King’s Close, the site stands not as a monument of tragedy but as a testament to continuity. Guided tours lead visitors through rooms once filled with laughter and sorrow, where lanterns cast light on faded walls that still seem to breathe. The echoes of history are palpable—one can almost hear the footsteps of merchants and mothers, of children chasing hope through the gloom. The site has become both a museum and a meditation, reminding the modern world that beneath every thriving city lies a buried story waiting to be heard.

Standing at the entrance of Mary King’s Close is to feel the pulse of a city’s forgotten heart. The scent of stone and time envelops you; the silence speaks of endurance, fear, and faith. This buried street is not just an artifact—it is a soul preserved in earth and air, a reminder that civilization is built upon countless unseen lives. And as the light from the Royal Mile filters faintly into its shadowed pᴀssageways, one cannot help but wonder: can we ever truly bury the past, or does it continue to breathe beneath our feet?

A Farmer’s Misplaced Hammer Led to the Largest Roman Treasure in Britain


Hoxne Hoard treasures. Photo by Helen Simonsson CC by SA-2.0
November 16, 1992 was the day which changed Suffolk-resident Eric Lawes’ life in a huge way. What he thought would have been an innocent search for a hammer he had misplaced on his farm in Hoxne Village, Suffolk, England ended up bringing him much more than he had bargained for — namely, uncovering the hiding spot of a long-hidden treasure. Based on the Guardian’s coverage of the story, Eric Lawes had been previously gifted a metal detector upon his retirement as a parting token. He decided to put his retirement gift to good use in order to locate the hammer which he had had some trouble finding. According to a 2018 Smithsonian Magazine article, when the device started recording that there was a strong signal coming from the earth, he knew that he was about to discover something big. As he started digging, it soon became clear to him that he had unearthed a treasure trove.
Hoxne Village. Photo by Duncan Grey CC BY-SA 2.0
Hoxne Village. Photo by Duncan Grey CC BY-SA 2.0
The Guardian reports that, when Lawes saw that his preliminary digging had yielded a few gold coins and silver spoons, he immediately contacted both the local archaeological society and the police department. Archaeologists came to the property the following day and had the area of earth holding the treasure carefully sectioned-off and removed. Their hope was that at a later stage, in their laboratory, they could examined the items in order to identify both their age and how they were stored.
Hoxne Hoard: Display case at the British Museum showing a reconstruction of the arrangement of the hoard treasure when excavated in 1992. Photo by Mike Peel CC BY-SA 4.0
Hoxne Hoard: Display case at the British Museum showing a reconstruction of the arrangement of the hoard treasure when excavated in 1992. Photo by Mike Peel CC BY-SA 4.0
When all was said and done, close to 60 pounds of items made from silver and gold were found on the site. These included more than 15,000 Roman coins, 200 gold objects, and several silver spoons. For archaeologists, this find — which later became labeled as the Hoxne Hoard — was an incredible discovery. AP News reported that archaeologist Judith Plouviez was over-the-moon about the discovery, saying that it was “an incredibly exciting and amazing find.” What’s more, another archaeologist, Rachel Wilkinson, told Smithsonian Magazine that this discovery was “the largest and latest ever found in Britain.”
Hoxne Hoard: Coins. Photo by Mike Peel CC BY-SA 4.0
Hoxne Hoard: Coins. Photo by Mike Peel CC BY-SA 4.0
Ordinarily, archaeologists would use radiocarbon dating as a means of identifying the age of ancient relics. However, they couldn’t locate any suitable material from the haul. Consequently, they determined the age by examining writing on the coins, as well as the ruler carved into them, estimating that the treasure was probably buried in either 408 or 409 AD.
The silver “Hoxne Tigress” – the broken-off handle from an unknown object – is the best known single piece out of some 15,000 in the hoard. Photo by Mike Peel CC BY-SA 4.0
The silver “Hoxne Tigress” – the broken-off handle from an unknown object – is the best known single piece out of some 15,000 in the hoard. Photo by Mike Peel CC BY-SA 4.0
Roman-era archaeologist Peter Guest told Smithsonian Magazine that “if you look at them a little more carefully, then they should be dated to the period after the separation of Britain from the Roman Empire.” He offers as part of his evidence the fact that almost all of the coins found in the Hoxne Hoard were clipped – in other words, small chunks of their edges had been taken off. These clippings would have been used to create coins which were similar to the Roman coins of that era.
A silver-gilt spoon with a marine beast from the Hoxne Hoard. Currently in the British Museum. Photo by JMiall CC BY-SA 3.0
A silver-gilt spoon with a marine beast from the Hoxne Hoard. Currently in the British Museum. Photo by JMiall CC BY-SA 3.0
Guest has a logical reason for this, arguing that “The Roman Empire wasn’t supplying Britain with new gold and silver coins, and in light of that, the population tried to get over this sudden cutoff in the supply of their precious metals by making the existing supplies go further.”
Reconstruction of the Hoxne treasure chest. Photo by Mike Peel CC-BY-SA-4.0
Reconstruction of the Hoxne treasure chest. Photo by Mike Peel CC-BY-SA-4.0
Archaeologists also believe that the treasure belonged to a Romano-British family. During that time, considering that there was so much societal discord and upheaval, it was common for Romans who had settled in Britain to bury their most prized possessions.
Two gold bracelets from the Hoxne Hoard, in the British Museum. Photo by Fæ CC BY-SA 3.0
Two gold bracelets from the Hoxne Hoard, in the British Museum. Photo by Fæ CC BY-SA 3.0
That said, one archaeologist is of the belief that the hoard had a lot of sentimental value for the Romano-British family to whom it is believed to have belonged. In her book The Hoxne Late Roman Treasure: Gold Jewellery and Silver Plate, Catherine Johns claims that the manner in which the treasure was kept supported this claim. Some of the items which were recovered had been packaged in small, wooden boxes which were lined with leather. What’s more, pieces of wood, locks, and nails, among other things, surrounded the gold and silver pieces. This leads Catherine to assert that the package was carefully buried and not simply chucked away in a rush.
Three silver-gilt Roman piperatoria or pepper pots from the Hoxne Hoard on display at the British Museum
Three silver-gilt Roman piperatoria or pepper pots from the Hoxne Hoard on display at the British Museum
Interestingly enough, the items unearthed might shed some light on the identity of the family who owned them. They cite a gold bracelet bearing the inscription “UTERE FELIX DOMINA IULIANE,” which roughly translates to “use this happily Lady Juliane”. A second name “Aurelius Ursicinus” has also been discovered. This has consequently led some to believe that Juliane and Aurelius were the couple and the original owners of the treasure. That said, that has yet to be confirmed.
Two toiletry items, one in the shape of a crane-like bird; the other with an empty socket, probably for bristles for a makeup brush. Photo by Fæ CC BY-SA 3.0
Two toiletry items, one in the shape of a crane-like bird; the other with an empty socket, probably for bristles for a makeup brush. Photo by Fæ CC BY-SA 3.0
All in all, the discovery was a real treasure for archaeologists, and by extension, for Lawes. According to Smithsonian Magazine, in recognition of his discovery and willingness to contact authorities, the British government rewarded him with over £1.7 million, an amount which he shared with the farmer whose land was dug out in order to get the treasure. Funnily enough, apart from the treasure, Lawes also found his lost hammer — which now resides in the British Museum.

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